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Domaine Denis Mortet

Stellar Gevrey-Chambertin from one of the Finest Addresses on the Côte

A man of the vineyards, Arnaud's “knack”, as critic David Schildknecht puts it, is to be driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte (many of his peers acknowledge as much) and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity.

Arnaud is continuing his father’s dream of producing more refined wines: openly getting stylistically closer to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity, or consistency across the range. Denis Mortet was already “backing off” the extraction in the pursuit of greater elegance but Arnaud is taking this even further, not only via shorter and gentler macerations but also by reducing the percentage of new oak used. At the same time, the vineyard work at chez Mortet is at the very highest level. A horse is now used to plough all 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards (to minimise soil compaction) and organic/biodynamic practice is now being trialled in these sites. Machines are no longer used in any of the sites and all the work, including spraying copper/sulphur is done via backpack.

Recent evolution, including the addition of three more Grand Cru plots, has combined with Mortet’s energy and talent to propel this Domaine to its status as one of the very finest producers of Gevrey-Chambertin.

After almost 20 years as a vigneron, Arnaud Mortet is still progressing like a man possessed. There is the same level of viticultural rigour for which he—and his father—have long been famous, but now there is also a new cellar, with large oak and new concrete fermenters. Significant portions of the grapes are hand-destemmed (with scissors, à la Leroy). This incredibly labour-intensive method—which requires the work of four people for one hour to fill a single barrel—involves cutting out the central axis of each bunch (known as the rachis) to ensure the berries are retained intact on their pedicels. The idea is that you get the value of whole-berry fermentation (the prettiness, fine tannins and perfume) but without the stems (which rob acidity and bring coarser tannins).

Despite these changes, which have become more and more evident in recent years, the last time we saw Arnaud Mortet he spoke with passion about how his desire to honour the memory of his father continues to drive him. Today the wines compare very favourably with those of Arnaud’s uncle, Charles Rousseau, even if the style is not the same. Denis Mortet would have been immensely proud of what his son (with the support of his mother Laurence and younger sister Clemence) has now achieved.

Currently Available

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2022

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2022

Where Domaine Denis Mortet’s Les Cinq Terroirs comes from the Brochon side of the village, the parcels for Ma Cuvée lie south of Gevrey near several Premier and Grand Crus. Most lie just east of the Combe de Lavaux. Covering just over two hectares, the vineyards are Les Epointures, La Justice, Champs-Chenys, Les Champerriers, En Jouise, Clos de l’Arche and Les Platières. The latter vineyard features 70-year-old vines on gravel and limestone. This wine is mostly destemmed using the new state-of-the-art SOCMA Cube destemmer that leaves the berries whole without the pedicel. There were, however, 30% whole bunches used and just a quarter new oak. 

“Crimson ruby colour, a stricter nose, more strawberry fruit. Pretty enough, less succulent than Mes Cinq Terroirs (Denis Mortet label), but attractive and quite persistent. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Nov 2023.”
90-93 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée bursts with aromas of sweet cherries, red berries, plums and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and charming palate that's lively, fine-boned and pure. As usual, this cuvée derives from the south of the appellation, in contrast to the more structured "Cinq Terroirs" bottling Mortet produces for the family domaine."
89-91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2022
Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2023

Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2023

As all followers of this domaine will know well, this is Mortet’s ‘super-Gevrey’, sourced from a clutch of five brilliantly placed plots that Denis Mortet chose for the distinctive quality of their terroir and plant material. All the vines are at the higher, northern end of the appellation, which dictates the finesse. The vineyards include: En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close by, under Petits Cazetiers; Combe-du-Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just northeast of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s 1er Cru Champeaux (the vines here are over 70 years old); and En Dérée, below En Champs on the Brochon border.Only 20% new barrels were used, and one-third of the fruit was destemmed. This is simply brilliant and would have no problem passing for 1er Cru status (from a top producer!) in a blind line-up. Give it at least five years and you will reap even greater rewards.

“40% whole bunch vinification, 20% new wood. More crimson than ruby. The bouquet has a deeper darker style of fruit, cherry-raspberry rather than strawberry, slightly firmer tannins before the rich deep fruit returns behind. The acidity is entirely folded in. A notably long finish. Great stuff! Drink from 2029-2035.”
92-94 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“Aromas of orange zest, sweet red berries, cherries and rose petals preface Mortet's 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered wine that's deep but suave, with polished tannins and a long, perfumed finish. This has turned out beautifully.”
90-92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs, from parcels in the north of the appellation, is matured in one- to three-year-old barrels, Mortet regaling the latter as something that enhances the wines by lessening the wood impact. It has a very well-defined bouquet with raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit, the one-third whole bunch imparting light white-peppery scents. The palate is well balanced with a sharp entry—a more angular Gevrey with plenty of spice on the finish. Superb.”
91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs 2023
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023 (1500ml)

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023 (1500ml)

Where Domaine Denis Mortet’s Les Cinq Terroirs comes from the Brochon side of the village, the parcels for Ma Cuvée lie south of Gevrey near several Premier and Grand Crus. Most lie just east of the Combe de Lavaux. Covering just over two hectares, the vineyards are Les Epointures, La Justice, Champs-Chenys, Les Champerriers, En Jouise, Clos de l’Arche and Les Platières. The latter vineyard features 70-year-old vines on gravel and limestone. This wine is mostly destemmed using the new state-of-the-art SOCMA Cube destemmer that leaves the berries whole without the pedicel. There were, however, 40% whole bunches used and just under a quarter new oak.

“The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée comes from purchased fruit, although Mortet stresses that he works the vineyard. The 2023 used one-third whole bunch and presents a lovely bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit and hints of wilted rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, showing a little dark chocolate toward the finish. Smooth and quite seductive, this will drink well for the next decade.”
89-91 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée is pure and demonstrative, offering up aromas of orange oil, petals and raspberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate. Readers may remember that its suave style reflects its origins in the southern part of the appellation, as opposed to the more robust wines from the northern part of Gevrey that go into Mortet's Cinq Terroirs bottling for the family domaine.”
89-91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“From the southern part of Gevrey. 40% whole bunch vinification, and 15-20% new wood. Mid crimson ruby. Generous strawberry fruit up front, darker behind on the palate, fine acidity, plenty of energy all the way through to the finish. This is a lovely example. Drink from 2028-2033.”
90-92 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2023 (1500ml)
Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets 2023

Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets 2023

Hailing from one of Gevrey-Chambertin’s most refined Premier Cru sites, Mortet’s Les Champonnets expresses the deep soils of its site in compelling fashion. Vinified with 50% whole bunches on a quarter new oak.

“A lovely fresh ruby colour. The bouquet is very suave, in a lifted fresh red fruit. The Champonnets seems understated until the exceptional concentration of striking red cherries emerges, along with a light salinity to finish. Drink from 2030-2037.”
93-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champonnets 2023
Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2023

Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2023

Although Mortet’s 0.32 hectares of vines are in the lower part of this historic vineyard, they are some of the oldest (more than 60 years) and most fastidiously farmed vines in the entire clos. Mortet has always produced one of the vineyard’s finest wines (other growers admit as much), with an intensely floral and Musigny-like style. The 2023 is immensely powerful and hedonistic, comfortably soaking up its (almost) 50% new oak.

“The 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru includes around 40% whole bunch, as the bunches were larger this year. Boasting wonderful delineation and precision, it has a lifted bouquet with dark berry fruit, hints of brown spices and blackcurrant leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. Linear, focused and tensile from start to finish, there is a touch of piquancy toward the finish. Outstanding.”
94-96 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2023 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is round and charming, exhibiting aromas of plums, sweet red berries, orange and cinnamon, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy palate. This grand cru may have the reputation for structure and austerity, but this particular wine wears its heart on its sleeve.”
91-93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“One third classic whole bunch vinification and less than half new wood. Bigger grapes here were less suited to pedicel treatment. An even crimson. A little less concentrated than my favourite Gevrey cuvées. The oak behind is well judged in support and there is a rich red cherry burst and excellent length. No rustic tannins here, or anywhere in this cellar. Drink from 2030-2037.”
93-96 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Domaine Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2023
Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2023

Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2023

The Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is the only négoce wine in the portfolio, but it comes from an excellent grower whom Arnaud tells us works to his high standards. From vines pushing 80 years old, one third of the fruit was whole bunch (pedicels only), and just under a quarter new oak was used. An incredible wine.

“The 2023 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a delightful bouquet with red cherries and wild strawberry fruit, light peppery notes and a touch of incense, a little more exotic but not too much! The palate is medium-bodied and finely delineated with black cherries and cassis fruit. It is quite refined with a slightly confit-like finish. Very fine.”
92-94 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2023
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Domaine Denis Mortet is a family domaine of great note established by Charles Mortet in 1956 in Gevrey-Chambertin.

• Since 2006, the estate has been in the talented hands of third-generation Arnaud Mortet, with his mother Laurence and sister Clémence.

• Today, the estate spans approximately 16 hectares of vines across Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux, Bonnes Mares, Mazis-Chambertin, Marsannay and Fixin.

• Viticulture is mostly organic, soils are ploughed infrequently to preserve soil structure, grass cover is encouraged, and trimming is done with shears.

• Some whole bunches are retained, otherwise destemming is done by hand to preserve whole berries, and the use of new wood is low.

• The range includes Bourgogne, Village, 1er Cru and Grand Cru wines.

• The wines are in high demand and are sold on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

“Mortet’s wines are often spellbinding creations, thrilling wines that instantly seduce with their seamless texture, filigree tannins and beguiling purity of fruit.” Neal Martin, Vinous 

“The wines are undeniably lovely, with the flesh and charm to drink well in their youth but the concentration and satiny structure to age. They're also impressively consistent. If Mortet can sustain the viticultural attention to detail that was his father's calling card across the entire breadth of his growing palette of appellations, then this domaine's position among the greats of the Côte de Nuits will be assured.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Nuits

People

Winemaker: Arnaud Mortet

Availability

National

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