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The quotes on this page illustrate just how far Alexandre Chartogne has come since he “came home to Merfy and started digging holes” in 2006. Chartogne-Taillet has since become one of the most exciting Champagne growers today, and we find ourselves competing for every bottle we can acquire (which is never enough).
Based in the northernmost part of the Champagne region, seven kilometres north of Reims, Chartogne’s village of Merfy is situated among a crescent of villages in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, where vineyards have been cultivated since at least the Roman Empire. The Benedictine monks of the nearby Abbey of Saint-Thierry expanded the vineyards in the 7th century and meticulously mapped the terroirs.
The Domaine itself dates back to 1920, but significant changes began in 2006 when Alexandre took charge. After briefly working with the renowned Anselme Selosse, who greatly influenced his approach to viticulture and winemaking, Alexandre assumed control of the family cellar and vineyards at the young age of 23. Since then, the quality of the wines has reached elite levels. Today, Chartogne manages 11 hectares of vineyards in Merfy and neighbouring villages, Chenay and Saint-Thierry.
His vineyards comprise approximately 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier, and a small amount of Arbanne. Importantly, the soils here form a complex mosaic that varies greatly from that of the Côte de Blancs, featuring deep layers of marine sands, loess, sandstone, and clay over chalk. As a result, the region has more sand and sandstone than the more famous areas of Champagne, imparting a unique character to the wines. To this day, Chartogne’s single-parcel Champagnes reflect the specific climats identified by the Benedictines long ago.
In the vineyards, no chemicals, herbicides, or insecticides are used. Cultivation occurs only when necessary, with sheep and chickens roaming freely; organic compost is applied as needed, all aimed at maximizing soil health. In the cellar, each parcel is vinified separately. Primary fermentation is done naturally, mostly in second-hand barriques, although Chartogne has also utilized concrete eggs for some time.
Typically, the base wines age for nine months—much longer than most Champagnes—before blending and tasting. The second fermentation in the bottle is initiated using yeasts selected from each specific parcel. Dosage is low, and as Chartogne refines his style, it decreases each year.
IN THE PRESS:
“Alexandre Chartogne is one of the most thoughtful vignerons in Champagne. His wines increasingly show focus, purity and superb expression of place, variety and vintage. The Cuvée Ste.-Anne remains one of my go-to, affordable NV Champagnes. This tasting was a highlight of my recent trip through Champagne, as readers will see in perusing through these notes.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous “This was already a fantastic house before young Alexandre Chartogne took over from his parents, and now he’s turned the family domaine into one of the iconic [wineries] of the modern Champagne movement. A disciple of Selosse, Chartogne follows the same non-interventionist ways to produce exceedingly vinous Champagnes from his home village of Merfy.” Rajat Parr, The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste “Chartogne Taillet, an excellent producer based in the town of Merfy in the northern reaches of the Champagne region, makes several fascinating single-vineyard Champagnes, including Heurtebise, a harmonious, savory wine made of chardonnay that is rich with creamy, chalky, umami flavors, and Les Orizeaux, made of pinot noir, that is pure, saline and practically weightless with the telltale scent of red berries.” Eric Asimov, New York Times
Country
France
Primary Region
Merfy (Marne)
People
Winemaker: Alexandre Chartogne
Availability
National