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Bannockburn

A Victorian Icon at the Top of Its Game

Since its establishment by Stuart Reginald Hooper in 1974, Bannockburn Vineyards has been at the vanguard of the Australian fine wine story, producing vineyard designated wines of the highest quality from the start. Lying 25 kilometres northwest of Geelong along the Midland Highway, this heavyweight estate is located in the Moorabool Valley sub-region, just outside the township of Bannockburn. The estate comprises 26 vineyard blocks—including the iconic Serré vineyard (now the site of Australia's oldest close-planted Pinot Noir vines). Here, Bannockburn’s predominantly mature vines are rooted in one of Victoria’s most unique low-fertility terroirs; volcanic surface debris and ancient seabeds running to richer and darker soils, layered over predominantly limestone bedrock.

Following almost a decade under the steam train of energy and passion that was Michael Glover, Matt Holmes is the winemaker charged with writing the next chapter of this singular estate. Perhaps most significantly, feeling the region was too arid to get the best of the dry-grown, densely-planted vineyards, Bannockburn and Holmes have ‘turned on the tap’ (to encourage the kind of canopies Holmes deems crucial for his vines’ balance). Holmes has also introduced an earlier bottling regime and a more flexible use of whole bunches than his predecessor. 

All of Bannockburn’s close-planted vineyards are now certified organic. Matt Holmes believes that as soon as he and his team had started the process of improving vine health a few years ago, the upshot in fruit quality was immediately noticeable in the wines. Under Holmes’ direction there’s also been a stylistic tilt in the winery, and with his Chardonnay, he’s steering a racier, more mouth-watering course—with less emphasis on lees and oak and more on vibrant acidity and freshness. Yet it is perhaps the style and quality of Bannockburn’s Pinot Noir in which the changes can be most keenly observed. An earlier-bottling regime and more reticent use of whole bunches are resulting in a purity of expression perhaps never seen under this label. 

They say you’ve got to watch out for the quiet ones, and Matt Holmes is overseeing a discreet but careful evolution in both vineyard and winery. The Results? Bannockburn’s wine’s have never tasted finer.

In the vineyards, Holmes works with Lucas Grigsby, Bannockburn’s viticulturist for over 30 years. Grigsby takes great pride in tending to the vineyards with a strong belief in organic farming practices to maintain the health of the soils and Bannockburn’s vines. Between them, the pair’s viticultural principles are based on a healthy respect for the land and responsible farming, e.g., the use of organic composting and straw mulching to eliminate the need for herbicide sprays and the cultivation of inter-row cover crops to add soil nutrients. These principles flow through into the winery where Holmes employs minimal additions, wild yeast ferments and low intervention winemaking resulting in wines that are made with integrity and that are distinctively Bannockburn.

In addition to a core-range glittering with stars, Bannockburn crafts a number of celebrated single-vineyard wines. Bannockburn’s S.R.H. comes off the oldest Chardonnay vines in the Olive Tree Hill Vineyard and is named in recognition of Bannockburn’s founder, Stuart Reginald Hooper. These 12 rows of 39-year-old vines – roots well embedded in the ancient marine sediments – seem to suck the minerality fresh out of their subsoil and so deliver a spine-tingling backbone of fresh, saline minerality to support the intense flavour and texture of this special wine. 

The iconic Serré vineyard is a 1.2-hectares of vines planted in 1984 and 1986, exclusively to the MV6 clone the clone that was propagated from the cuttings James Busby sourced from Clos Vougeot in the 19th century. The site has volcanic top-soils, with darker clay over weathered basalt and limestone clay. It’s an organically managed and low-cropping site that produces Bannockburn’s most individual Pinot. Serré is close-planted to 9000 vines per hectare and trellised low with narrow rows, replicating the tough vineyard conditions and low-yield-per-vine approach of Grand Cru Burgundy. 

More recently, Michael Glover oversaw the inception, planting and nurturing of the two very special high-density single vineyards — De la Terre and De la Roche. De la Terre is a sub-one-hectare, organically managed vineyard planted to 10,000 Pinot Noir vines per hectare (on a north-south row orientation rather than the east-west of its immediate neighbour, Serré). 

Currently Available

Bannockburn Riesling 2024

Bannockburn Riesling 2024

Bannockburn’s Riesling is really hitting its stride. Riesling was one of the first varieties to be planted in Bannockburn’s original Olive Tree Hill vineyard in 1976. Today, most of the fruit still comes from this one acre of original, own-rooted, now quite low-yielding block that sits at the top of the north-facing slope on the property. A small portion (0.6 acres) of 2015 plantings is also in the mix. We don’t need to tell you about Riesling’s knack for expressing place, and Bannockburn’s deep-rooted old vines do a stellar job of soaking up every ounce of expression from these ancient limestone rocks. The fruit was picked in excellent condition―when flavours were ripe and natural acidity still high―and pressed as bunches to steel tank for fermentation. The wine then matured on lees for three months before being bottled. As with the last couple of vintages, there were no additions other than a touch of sulphur. It's a wonderfully fragrant release, with citrus and white florals leading to fresh, crisp flavours and a mouthwatering chalky finish. 

“As far as I know this doesn’t see oak but it still feels noticeably textural. It’s cut with citrussy flavours but the main characters here are steel and tonic. It’s dry, almost gravelly, almost stony, with a herbs-dipped-in-woodsmoke-and-brine side. This too would be fabulous to dine with.”
93+ points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
“Made mainly from 0.4ha of vines planted in 1976. A pure and quite lovely nose featuring scents of Meyer lemon, makrut lime leaves and floral notes. The palate is linear, chalky and long with the fruit and acidity in perfect harmony. I'm thinking san choy bow would be a great match. I'm guessing it'll age superbly, too.” 96 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
96 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
“Lifted, fresh and floral notes of lemon sherbet, orange blossoms and candied lime zest. The palate is light-bodied with piercing acidity and a generous mouthfeel that will open up in time, giving notes of flint, crushed river stones and grapefruit. Very tightly bound. Drink or hold. Screw cap.”
93 points, jamessuckling.com
“The 2024 vintage marks the 50th anniversary for Bannockburn—a moment for the estate. On the nose, this 2024 Riesling has pronounced grass aromas, with green apple, chalk and wet stones. In the mouth, it is tightly coiled and quite powerful; one would struggle to use words like “delicate” to describe it. This really gives impact and shape to the experience. This is a good wine. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.”
92 points, Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate
Bannockburn Riesling 2024
Bannockburn 1314 Pinot Noir 2024

Bannockburn 1314 Pinot Noir 2024

From the gamut of the estate’s organically farmed Pinot Noir blocks planted in 1976, 1997 and 2004 to MV6, 114 and 115 clones, 1314 is a bona fide mini–Bannockburn Pinot. As is always the case, this wine sees a healthy slug of fruit from the iconic close-planted blocks (Serré and De La Terre) and comprises a selection of barrels chosen for their freshness and early-drinking appeal. The fruit fermented with 25% bunches, and a small portion was handled carbonically. The wine matured in hogsheads (20% new) for eight months. The savoury depth and pure, potent flavour so characteristic of this estate are writ large. It’s jam-packed with berries and spice, with earthy depth and some dusty rose mingling in the background. Punchy and silky in equal measure, this is classic Bannockburn Pinot with drink-me-now appeal. 

“A blend of estate fruit planted in 1976, 1997 and 2004. 25% whole bunches and 20% new oak. A pleasing crimson red. The whole bunches announce themselves the moment you pick up the glass. Aromas of tea rose and bramble together with some spiced cherries and raspberries lead onto the moreish and flavourful palate. This also has the structure to see this become softer and more complex over the next 3–4 years.”
93 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
“There’s plenty of interest here but then, that’s always the case with the wines of Bannockburn. This is a twiggy, autumnal Pinot Noir with spice, earth, ash, snapped twig and cola characters running through pure, sweet red cherry fruit flavour. It’s light-ish but there’s enough to satisfy, and the drinkability factor is high enough for me to polish off a bottle solo over the course of two nights. It’s a wine that isn’t too taxing, but still has plenty going on.”
90 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
Bannockburn 1314 Pinot Noir 2024
Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2024

Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2024

This first-rate release brings together Bannockburn’s entire spectrum of Pinot vineyards. The 2024 includes fruit from Olive Tree Hill, planted in 1976, 10 Rows (1991), Stuart Block (1997), Anns Block (2004). The cream on top? The close-planted De La Terre block planted in 2007. All the sites lie in volcanic loam and dark clay over a limestone base and are planted to various clones, mainly MV6 with a smattering of the Dijon (or Bernard) clones. Fruit from each block fermented separately, with approximately 20% bunches included and a small portion undergoing carbonic maceration. The wine was pressed to hogsheads and puncheons (25% new) for 10 months’ maturation.It's a Pinot that soars from the glass, perfumed and layered with flowers, spice, earth, wispy reduction and brambly berry fruits. Dive in! There’s an abundance of charm and character, with a bright, tight core of flavour framed by fine tannins and invigorating acidity. If this were Bannockburn’s top Pinot, that would be enough! Like the Chardonnay, it is a profound Bannockburn that will love the cellar. But who are we kidding? Show it plenty of air and serve with roast duck.

"All the herbs and spices, of course, but the shells of nuts, woodsmoke, a chicory element and whispers of both black coffee and black tea, all of which swirl around sound, sure-footed cherry-berry fruit flavours. This wine is as complex as it is assured, its sinewy tannin finessed into place, its flavours cascading out through the finish. This will age beautifully, and is best consumed with at least another few years under its belt."
94+ points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
“Medium-deep colour with just a light trace of purple in the meniscus; the bouquet is big on stemmy whole-bunch character, which adds forest-floor, dried herb and burnt wood/ashy nuances. These also come through on the palate, where it's quite full flavoured with amaro herbs on the finish. You need to like the bunchy style, and this is a very smart example of it.”
93 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2024
Bannockburn 1314 Chardonnay 2024

Bannockburn 1314 Chardonnay 2024

Fruit for the 1314 Chardonnay is sourced from several blocks across Bannockburn’s organically farmed estate, including a healthy dose from the pedigreed 1976 plantings. This is a barrel selection of the estate’s 2024 crop, so the cellar practice is as it was for the estate wines. The fruit was pressed as bunches to hogsheads (20% new) for fermentation. As was the case last year, the oak is faultlessly integrated, a testament to the power of the site and soils and the skilled hand of Holmes. The wine underwent full malolactic conversion, followed by eight months of maturation on lees with no stirring. The 2024 is bright and bursting with citrus and stone fruits, with hints of richness and spice. Tight lines and racy fresh acidity match lovely fleshy weight and supple, silky texture. This is already singing and will flourish with some time in bottle.

“This is right in the groove. It’s a definite ‘yes’ if it’s within reach. It brings more flavour than you might expect, but then Bannockburn chardonnay is rarely if ever shy. It tastes of white peach and nectarine, roasted nuts, citrus and honeysuckle. It’s not overly complicated but it’s not simple either. There’s a note of lemonade to their aftertaste, and a pastry-like note too. It’s very good. It feels unforced and yet it’s full of flavour.”
93 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
“Made from a blend of fruit grown at Bannockburn from 1976, through to the most recent 2016 planting. A bright, deep-ish green gold. An attractive and open-knit bouquet of ripe nectarines, beeswax and a little lemon confit. The palate is generous, mouth-filling, balanced and long and, while it's been designed and made to drink in its youth, this should still be looking good 3–4 years from now.”
91 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
Bannockburn 1314 Chardonnay 2024
Bannockburn Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2015 (Museum)

Bannockburn Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2015 (Museum)

Museum Release. Each year, the Hooper family set aside some Museum stock for extended cellaring to be released when they deem each wine to be in a great place. Over the years, we have embraced their generosity and been rewarded with striking, mature, perfectly cellared wines. We are pleased to offer a slice of Bannockburn history. Like the Estate Shiraz, Bannockburn’s Cabernet blends showcase the depth and strength of the estate’s savoury signature. The team are always pleasantly surprised by the resilience and quality of their aged Cabernet-based wines, finding structure, freshness and remarkable balance more often than not—a fact that can be attributed to the quality of site and farming, no doubt.  The fruit hails from some of the oldest plantings at the estate: 1976 and 1981 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1981 Merlot and 1996 Shiraz. All three varieties are rooted deep in volcanic, dark, loamy soils atop a limestone base. In 2015, the fruit was picked by hand and destemmed, with a small portion left as whole clusters. The wine saw a lengthy maceration, after which it matured in seasoned French barrels of various sizes for 12 months. Savoury and spicy with wisps of brambly fruits, baking spice and an enticing iron filing edge. The structure is sound, with lasting tannins and fresh acidity supporting the lovely mix of freshness and early signs of maturity, leading to a savoury, lengthy close. This is in a lovely spot.

Bannockburn Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2015 (Museum)
Bannockburn Douglas 2014 (Museum)

Bannockburn Douglas 2014 (Museum)

Museum Release. Each year, the Hooper family set aside some Museum stock for extended cellaring, to be released when they deem each wine to be in a great place. Over the years, we have embraced their generosity and been rewarded with striking, mature and perfectly cellared wines. We are pleased to once again offer a slice of Bannockburn history. Bannockburn’s Douglas red blend is always guaranteed to start a spirited conversation around a table of wine folk. Like the Estate Shiraz, it’s a wine that showcases the depth and strength of Bannockburn’s savoury signature. Named after Sir James “The Black” Douglas—a Scottish knight and feudal lord and one of the chief commanders during the Wars of Scottish Independence—this idiosyncratic blend tells a multi-variety story of Bannockburn’s vineyards each year. In 2014, the blend comprised Shiraz (65%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Merlot (5%), planted in 1981, 1990 and 1996 and grown on the Winery Block. A small portion of Pinot Noir (10%), planted in 2004, was also included. Each batch was vinified separately with partial whole-bunch fermentation and carbonic maceration. The wine matured for 18 months in a mixture of French barriques and hogsheads.This is in a lovely spot. Savoury and spicy with wisps of brambly fruits, just struck match, tea leaves, baking spice and wet earth, deftly supported by chalky tannins, fresh energy and a silky, demi-glace-tinged finish. If wild and wonderful is your thing, this will do nicely.

“Bannockburn’s Douglas red blend is always an interesting wine. This release from 2014 is a blend of shiraz (65%), cabernet sauvignon (20%), pinot noir (10%) and merlot (5%). This 2014 will polarise even more than previous releases. It’s truffly and spicy, tomato bush-y and cherried. There are blackcurrant notes, game influences, herb and floral nuances. The whole box and dice, basically. Truffle notes in wine either make you swoon, or make you recoil. Some days I do the former, most days I do the latter. This wine remains juicy throughout, lively even, and seems coltish as a three-year-old, though the tannin has a slight drying aspect. It’s a conversation starter: never a bad thing.”
Campbell Mattinson, winefront.com.au
Bannockburn Douglas 2014 (Museum)
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Stuart Reginald Hooper established the estate in the limestone soils of Geelong’s Moorabool Valley in 1974.

• This family domaine is now managed by the second and third generation alongside winemaker Matt Holmes and viticulturist Lucas Grigsby.

• It has some of the region’s oldest vines and is a pioneer of high-density planting in Australia.

• Yields are tightly restricted, and farming across the estate is organic.

• The estate is famed for cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and the full range includes Riesling, Shiraz, Gamay and Sauvignon Blanc.

• Alongside the Estate wines and value-driven 1314 bottlings are the world-class single-site wines from the close-planted blocks.

• The estate also has an impressive museum library and bottles its Estate and single-block wines in larger formats.

• The single-block wines are sold on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

Halliday Wine Companion Top 100 Wineries 2023

#28: Bannockburn Vineyards

"Bannockburn has been celebrated for its Burgundian varieties and the degree of complexity and depth achieved in both chardonnay and pinot noir. With five pinots produced, the producer has style and diversity of the grape well covered. However, this is not to dismiss the quality of its lively, spice-fuelled shiraz, something of an unsung hero.” Jeni Port, Wine Companion

“Onwards and upwards for Bannockburn Vineyards” Huon Hooke, The Real Review

“These are seriously good wines and stylistically nothing like the Bannockburns of old.” Jane Faulkner, The Age

“The late Stuart Hooper had a deep love for the wines of Burgundy, and was able to drink the best. When he established Bannockburn, it was inevitable that pinot noir and chardonnay would form the major part of the plantings, with lesser amounts of riesling, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and merlot. Bannockburn is still owned by members of the Hooper family, who continue to respect Stuart’s strong belief in making winesthat reflect the flavours of the certified-organic vineyard.”

★★★★★ Halliday Wine Companion

Country

Australia

Primary Region

Geelong, Victoria

People

Winemaker: Matt Holmes

Availability

National

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