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Even in the Rhône, varietal Roussanne is a rare bird. Jean-Baptiste Souillard, a young producer with an encyclopaedic knowledge of the region, recently estimated there are only 10 or so producers who do not blend their Roussanne with Marsanne. Made entirely from Roussanne (and inspired by a tasting of Beaucastel’s Vieilles Vignes Châteauneuf early on in Gaillard’s career), this is one of those wines that make you question that logic.
The grapes were drawn from several low-yielding sites situated in the far north of the appellation: the relatively cool, granite plateau of Malleval at Les Dries; and its slopes at Chartres; and finally, from Les Vessettes in Chavanay. The wine spent eight months in used Allier and Nevers barrels sourced from growers in Chassagne and Pouilly-Fuissé.
Made for the dinner table, Gaillard's wine is always pitched at the weightier end of the spectrum. The 2020 is true to form, opening with creamy layers of ripe citrus and orange fruit, followed by plenty of blossom and spice. There’s a deliciously mouth-coating texture and just the right measure of freshness to shoulder it all.