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The finest sites of Chassagne’s 1er Cru Morgeot (where 20 separate lieux-dits can be bottled) lie in the upper sector, above the main road on the poorer, white soils. Les Fairendes is one of these sites. Thierry Pillot once told us that his grandfather used to say that this vineyard—situated just below Les Caillerets—was the finest terroir within Morgeot (Pillot has no holding here, so we can take his word to be impartial). This wine is as far from your average Morgeot as you could imagine. It’s an incredibly mineral wine: chalky, driven, powerful and long. Real depth and structure, too. Brilliant.