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Biodynamic. Like the Chardonnay vineyards, Pyramid Valley’s Waikari Pinot Noir sites were planted in 2000 at 11,111 vines per hectare on slopes with clay/limestone soils. Earth Smoke is an expansive slope that faces east and is situated southwest of Lion’s Tooth and north of its sibling Pinot Noir site, Angel Flower. The soils are richer than Angel Flower, described by Steve Smith as “strong and beautifully structured”—there’s a high proportion of clay (30%) over the limestone bedrock. The name comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant from the poppy family that thrives in this 0.85-hectare plot. Although both wines share DNA, the later-picked Earth Smoke is typically the more structured and darker of the two, with more fruit weight and savoury undertones to go with its tender, fine tannins.
The combination of sunlight, high UV, moderate temperatures and decent humidity is nirvana for temperate plants. Pyramid’s vines respond by harnessing all this energy to ripen grapes that are full of the delicate aromas, beautiful flavours and refined phenolics that are the benchmark for fine, cool-climate Pinot Noir. The 2023 Earth Smoke is resplendent with this energy and the unique stamp of its part of the Waikari vineyard. Made from paltry yields of 11 hl/ha, Huw Kinch has crafted wine that screams of place, composed and pure, with elegant texture and expansive presence—just superb.