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Jumping straight in at the deep end, Boulay’s entry-level is drawn from mature, 35- to 50-year-old vines rooted entirely in the limestone soils of Chavignol. The multiple sites are largely slopes on the Chavignol hillside terroirs of Les Chasseignes, Les Longues Fins and La Rue de Veaux. This is quite distinct from most Sancerre, derived from the plains, with more fertile and productive soils. Importantly, Boulay also includes fruit from younger vines on the “star” terroirs of La Grande Côte, Clos de Beaujeu and Monts Damnés.
The juice ferments spontaneously and rests for eight months on lees in a tank, with a small volume in a single large wooden cask. This is the only blended cuvée in the Boulay lineup, yet even here, we can taste the finesse, texture, and stony/earthy/salty minerality that have made this humble grower one of France’s most respected vignerons.
From a classically styled Sancerre vintage, you get a wealth of citrus and orchard fruit with just a hint of boxwood and elderflower aromas. On the palate, it’s bright, crystalline and racy, finishing with stony definition and a mineral twang. As always, here Sauvignon Blanc, just like Chardonnay in Burgundy, is the messenger rather than the message.