Domaine Chermette Saint-Amour Les Champs-Grillés 2023

The newest star in the Chermette firmament, Pierre-Marie’s Saint-Amour comes from a tiny parcel of 50-year-old vines from the Champs-Grillés climat (which covers a total of just three hectares). The parcel was offered to Chermette by an old friend who could no longer manage the Bessay Mountain’s steep aspect . Saint-Amour’s soils include areas of granite, and varying quantities of clay and limestone—a mix said to produce lighter, more delicate wines. Chermette’s vines, however, are all rooted in the classic decomposed granite. The old vines, low yields and high, southeast-facing aspect beget a surprisingly intense wine, which combines the lacy muscle of this grower’s Moulin-à-Vent with the lifted perfume of the Fleurie. It’s a racy, succulent Saint-Amour full of supple, red fruit kissed by blood orange and clove-like spice. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, this wine shows its class.