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The Poncié cuvée is drawn from a beautiful 4.5-hectare site of 45-year-old vines on pink granite soils. It is Chermette’s most seductive and graceful Cru bottling, especially when young. Poncié is one of a handful of celebrated highland terroirs along the ridge situated high above the village (Roche Guillon is another). With good reason, it is one of seven vineyards in Fleurie that has recently been put forward for Premier Cru status. The winemaking remains traditional, with natural, whole-bunch ferments in large, concrete vats and aging in large, old foudres. Beautifully pitched, with flashes of strawberry and goji berry, it’s a fine and almost classical example of a wine Pierre-Marie Chermette likes to describe as “élégant et aérien,” elegant and lifted.