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The limited production La Guiraude is Graillot’s tête de cuvée—made only in vintages where the wines exhibit particularly intense and age worthy personalities. It’s a barrel selection, so the winemaking is the same as the classic Crozes, although the chosen casks age longer in both barrel and bottle. The Graillots are quick to point out that La Guiraude is not necessarily seen as a better wine than the Domaine’s Crozes; instead, it is typically more powerful, spicier, and perhaps calling for longer cellaring. There is serious depth and plenty of fine tannins, yet it’s already seductive, offering notable drinking pleasure and complexity right now. But of course, there is also plenty of stuffing and the tannins to ensure age-worthiness. It will be even better with another decade (or more) in the cellar.