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The uniqueness of botrytis-effected Tokaji Aszú wines is not only down to terroir and indigenous grapes—primarily Furmint but also Hárslevelű, Muscat Blanc, Zéta and Kövérszőlő—but also the ancient production method still widely used. The Aszú (botrytis) berries are picked separately and added in various proportions (puttonyos) to a non-botrytised must or base wine during or after fermentation. The Aszú berries, being dry and shrivelled, have little or no juice, so this technique allows them to swell and enables effective pressing. After fermenting at a snail’s pace, the wines mature in Sauternes barrels from Château Suduiraut for a minimum of two years.
The proportion of Aszú grapes was historically measured in puttonyos. A puttony is a basket for carrying grapes, so a five puttonyos wine meant five hods of Aszú paste were added to the base. Today, the wines are classified by their residual sugar level rather than the number of baskets added. The puttonyos can still be listed on the label, but only 5 Puttonyos (120 g/L minimum) and 6 Puttonyos (150 g/L minimum) can be labelled as Aszú wines.
The 2017 is 100% Furmint, gently crushed and then macerated in a base wine and must of Furmint and Hárslevelű. After a long pressing, the fermentation took place in stainless steel vats until the middle of December. The wine was then aged in 225-litre oak barrels (including 17% new Hungarian oak) for two years and bottled with 187g/L residual sugar. It’s a glorious Tokaji full of the drive and brightness we find in all Disznókő wines but paired with remarkable, light-footed power.