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Les Trois Roches is named for the three rocky parcels of vines from which it derives—Rochegrès, Roche Noire and Rochelle. The average age of these vines is now more than 40 years. Pierre-Marie points out that La Rochelle (which overlooks the famous windmill) brings structure, whereas the east-facing Rochegrès contributes finesse and supple tannins, and the Roche Noire grapes bring liveliness and juicy fruit. A common feature of these sites is the concentration of manganese in the soils, which delivers an unmistakable mineral thread that runs through the wine. Unlike Chermette’s other Crus, the Moulin-à-Vent undergoes a portion of barrique aging (15%), which gives you some idea of this Cru’s intense personality. Expect mineral-infused cherry skin and fresh earth sustained by supple tannins and lots of juicy, smoky grip on the finish. This should age beautifully if you can keep your hands off it.