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In his seminal book Adventures on the Wine Route, Kermit Lynch bemoaned the trend for chaptalized, high-octane Beaujolais, yearning instead for the wines of yesteryear, with their depth, natural alcohol and acidity. Chermette’s emblematic Cuvée Traditionnelle Vieilles Vignes (previously called Vissoux) was first bottled in 1986 at the behest of Jean Brouilly, then Michelin-starred chef of Tarare. It instantly caused a sensation, launching the fame of the Chermette wines and igniting heated debate within the region. Unchaptalised and unfiltered (inadvertently or not), this wild-ferment, low sulphur, old-vine cuvée sailed over the oceans of bland, homogenised Beaujolais being produced at the time. It also raised the bar considerably for quality, non-cru Beaujolais and remains a benchmark today.
The fruit source is a densely-planted four hectares in Saint-Vérand with vines sited on a pocket of dark granite—soil that partly accounts for the wine’s Cru-level depth and minerality. The vine age also helps, ranging from 35 to 85 years.