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Lambert’s electric Chardonnay is the gift that keeps on giving. It’s drawn from the usual plot of clone 95 Chardonnay at the top of the east-facing slope in Denton Vineyard. Here, the granitic soils are elevated and are considerably thinner than further down the slope where the Crudo vines sit. Clone 95 is an early-ripening clone with small canopies and berries, so Luke pays particular attention to managing sun exposure and picking dates for these vines.
The winemaking is classic Lambert, with no additions save for small doses of sulphur. The fruit is pressed as whole bunches, fermented naturally and matured in a seasoned 2000-litre foudre. The choice of clone, the higher point on the slope, and the extra sunshine hours produce more power and depth in the Lambert Chardonnay compared to Crudo.
This kind of wine impossible not to love. The 2024 has added a sheen of fleshy radiance to the wine’s classic mineral stoniness, white blossom, cut hay and citrus oil. Like the Syrah from the same year, the Chardonnay has moved up a weight division yet remains as ripped and athletic as ever. Some will prefer the leaner, mineral-charged style of Luke’s 2023, many will prefer the denser, mouthwatering 2024. Either way, it’s a striking Chardonnay through and through. Tension, deeply-cast flavour and poised precision: this wine has the lot. It finishes with appealing umami notes and a reverb of citrus peel.