Clos Larrouyat Vin de France Phoenix 2024 (500ml)

Since the 2022 vintage, Maxime and Lucie Salharang’s ‘Jurançon Moelleux’ has been labelled as a Vin de France. Clos Larroyat’s cool, north-facing terroir had always struggled to reach the 12% required for the appellation, so they simply changed the label. This might give some insight into the style of the wine, which is a more delicate, dare we say Germanic style, than the chewier, marrowy norm of late-harvest Jurançon. Crafted entirely from Petit Manseng, it displays terrific balance between sweetness, crunchy fruit, and punchy, ripe acidity: it is discreet and fine yet luscious, with notes of lemon cake, honeycomb, and a hint of funky lanolin. Finishing vibrantly, with waxy, honeyed perfume, this has a freshness and vibrancy best matched with cheese plates rather than dessert dishes.