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Tasmanian Single Malt from a Hidden Gem
Established in 2012, this operation began in the Derwent Valley as Redlands Estate. The aim was to produce a true premium single malt whisky—a Tasmanian Kilchoman. In 2015, the distillery took the opportunity to move to the heritage-listed Dysart House in Kempton, less than an hour north of Hobart. They renamed their distillery Old Kempton in honour of their new, old home.
The man behind the still is distiller Rob Tyson. Tyson has worked in the Tasmanian Whisky trade since his Uni days, starting behind the bar at the Lark Distillery and staying with them for the next 10 years. During his tenure, Tyson worked in every facet of the business, from cellar door to operations, to distillation, before, at the request of Bill Lark himself, graduating to the role of Head Distiller at Old Kempton in early 2021.
Unlike the majority of Whisky producers in Tasmania, Old Kempton makes their own wash, ensuring Tyson and his team (including off-sider Nick who has a brewing background in Brisbane at White Lies) control grain and yeast selection, as well as fermentation times. This is an essential step for Old Kempton’s fermentation equals flavour ethos. Utilising local water and local barley and fermenting in-house allows them to better “capture their time and place” and further refine the Old Kempton style.
Old Kempton uses only Tasmanian-grown and malted barley and has what Tyson describes as a “fairly traditional approach” to distillation. Double distillation is in Knapp Lewer copper pot stills (one of Australia’s few makers of copper stills) that take through the heavy oils—a signature of the Old Kempton style—and maturation almost exclusively takes place, from start to finish, in the nominated cask, rather than just finishing.
Until now, Old Kempton has remained something of a hidden gem on the Tassie Whisky scene. Frankly, their spirits are far too good not to reach a wider audience. The Old Stables recently brought home the award for Best Australian Small Batch Single Malt Whisky at the 2022 World Whisky Awards.
Tyson’s deep understanding of the need for different approaches for different cask programmes is central to the character and quality of Old Kempton Whiskies. The distilling team works closely with cooperages and winemakers to source the highest quality casks. The inventory is roughly one-third ex-Australian Tawny, one-third Bourbon and, unusually, one-third Pinot Noir, with some room for discretionary inclusion of Sherry, Rum and Tokay as they crop up. The Pinot Noir casks are primarily sourced from Stefano Lubiana and Frogmore Creek. Seppeltsfield and Yalumba provide the lion’s share of the Tawny casks, and it’s the usual suspects for the Bourbon casks; Jack Daniels, Buffalo Trace and Wild Turkey, among others. Most of the barrels get a light shave, a medium toast and a heavy char before use.
The Old Kempton Whisky range is all Single Malt. The Old Stables and the Cask Strength Coachhouse represent the house-style Whiskies, incorporating a range of different casks to highlight the rich malt character of the Old Kempton spirit. Then there is the Classic Range comprising Ex-Port and Ex-Pinot Noir cask Single Malts. And finally, there is the Solera Cask Single Malt, currently drawn from a 500-litre Portuguese Port cask.
Alongside the Whisky programme, Old Kempton also crafts a range of small-batch Gins, named after William Henry Ellis. Ellis was sent from England to Australia in 1825 following a conviction for embezzlement. He arrived in Tasmania, and by all accounts married rather well, going on to build the Dysart House that is now home to the Old Kempton Distillery. There are three Gins in the range: a London Dry style, a fruity summer style and a barrel-aged Gin. Finally, two delicious liqueurs—an apple and a lavender malt—are made from Tasmanian ingredients to perfectly capture seasonality and place.
It’s a rich and deeply complex Whisky, opening with slightly more delicate oak than the rest of the range, allowing bright fruit and florals to offset the headier vanilla, spice and nutty elements. Although subtle on the nose, it’s a titan on the palate; a decadent, winter-themed single malt, with shortbread, dark fruit nut chocolate and spice flavours, followed by mountains of molten caramel to close.
The Whisky has a vibrant rooibos tea colour, and the nose bursts with cherry and red-fruited aromas, nut brittle and a slight rancio character. It’s very viscous in the mouth, with a beautifully rounded barley presence. That signature butterscotch is still there, joined by roasted hazelnuts and musk, and tempered by a tannic hold on the long finish.
Best Australian Small Batch Single Malt Whisky, 2022 World Whisky Awards
Country
Australia
Primary Region
Tasmania
Availability
National