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Biodynamic. This comes from a very old, genuine Clos (walled vineyard) that sits on a very rocky, hard limestone bedrock that’s close to the surface and is believed to be an old Roman path. This vineyard is on the lower part of the Pouilly-Vinzelles slope and is therefore classed as Mâcon-Vinzelles. The site was purchased by the Bret brothers’ maternal grandfather, hence the name Le Clos de Grand-Père. Speaking of maturity, some plants in this 0.7-hectare plot are now over 100 years old and the average age of the vines sits at around 60 years. The 2021 was mostly tank-raised—with just 10% old barrels used for élevage—and delivers a delicious combination of flesh and energy. From a lower-lying site that tends to deliver more tenderness, there is real steel this year. The fleshy honeydew and apple fruits are shot through by reverberating line of citrussy acidity that pulls the wine’s dense texture to an energetic and mineral finish.