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Organic. Over the past three seasons, Marlborough—particularly its organic vineyards—has experienced significant troubles with powdery mildew. In 2020 Takaki Okada’s Folium Vineyard succumbed to this pesky pathogen, and the resulting yields would not allow for a Corofin release this year. In Folium’s place, Paterson turned to his friend Ben Glover, whose organic Brawn Vineyard in Dillon’s Point had been impressing for several years.
Sitting in the lee of the Wither Hills to the southeast of the Wairau Valley floor, the Brawn Vineyard lies on Kaiapoi silt loam over pea gravel, closer the ocean than Corofin’s other sites. It’s home to an old-vine Mendoza clone that is now rare in Marlborough, “most of the old blocks have been ripped out and replaced with Sauvignon”, sighs Paterson. It’s the thick skins of this old-vine fruit that Paterson credits with his wine’s succulent extract and spice tones. In addition, both Glover and Paterson have identified a unique saline/umami note to the Chardonnay from this site (and both reviewers seem to pick this up on this signature in their notes below).
Given the quality of this first release, we were not surprised to hear that Paterson hopes to make Brawn a full-time member of the Corofin family. The winemaking for the Chardonnays is the same, and of the duo from 2020, the Brawn is the more exuberant; the nose brings more spice and the mouthcoating palate is layered with notes of honey, wild fennel and yellow flowers, all delivered within Corofin’s charter of elegance and purity.