If it wasn't for the Plageoles resuscitation of Plunelart or Mauzac Noir, Duras would certainly be the oldest vine variety still used in Gaillac today. No little thanks to Bernard Plageoles outspoken lobbying for the variety, it is the most commonly planted of all of Gaillac's traditional, dark-berried grape varieties. At its best, which is what we have here, it's a lively wine, deep in colour and rich in body and one that eloquently demonstrates a marriage of cépage to terroir well worth defending. This comes from a parcel of old vines on limestone and clay. It's cropped very low by regional standards and the winemaking is almost identical to the Prunelart - the fruit is hand harvested and winemaking is reassuringly tech-free. The fermentations are spontaneous, the wine is aged in cement tank for 1 year before being bottled without fining or filtration. The nose is very unusual if intriguing; subtle liquorice and spice, a bit of crushed ant and sweet red things too. Then in the mouth it's quite bright and fresh with a core of almost fruitcakey (without being sweet), plummy fruit and then this wonderfully spicy, almost curry leaf-scented, powdery close. Very drinkable and sooooo different. Will challenge with its difference but then again, a totally uncommon variety should do just that. It remains a delicious drink which is the main thing.