At this stage the Haardt village wine is firmer and more coiled than the bottling above. It tastes incisive, ethereal, tangy, a 'Cor, Blimey' kind of Riesling with oodles of preserved lemon, juby yellow fruits, liquorice root and talc aromas and flavours. Somehow it's also ultra delicate in the mouth - it just floats over the tongue - yet is also textural and demanding of food. With its springy, exotically flavoured palate and long, textural finish, this is the business.