"A background trace of SO2 is not enough to materially detract from the otherwise citrus and wet stone-infused nose that leads to... read more
“These wines offer incredible quality for the price.”
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com, Issue 35, 2009
“Seriously great 2009s – relatively upon a par with the quality of Lafon and Roulot in 2009.”
Bill Nanson, The Burgundy Report
“Run by Olivier Lamy, son of Hubert, this is, along with that of Marc Colin, the best address in the commune. There are delicious wines here.” Clive Coates, The Wines of Burgundy
Which quotes to use? Guide de Vins de Bourgogne 2007: “Amongst the 17 best domaines in Burgundy” Bourgogne Aujourde-Hui: “Young vigneron of great quality, Olivier Lamy produces St Aubins that are worthy of comparison with the greatest wines of Burgundy…” Les Meilleurs vins de France 2008: “…magnificent wines at very reasonable prices. Sadly, there is very little wine for sale.” And on it goes. There are a plethora of glowing articles and reviews in the French press on the wines of Hubert Lamy.
For those interested more on what's in the bottle than what’s on the label (in terms of commune), the wines of Domaine Hubert Lamy offer some of the most exhilarating white wines in Burgundy. Those who know the wines will already know that Olivier Lamy (winemaker here and son of Hubert) is one of the most respected white wine producers across the Côte, producing racy, intensely mineral and floral whites of the highest quality. These are wines that showcase the very best aspects of St Aubin’s rocky, bony, chalky soils. They are “l’eau de roche” as the French like to say.
The reputation of this Domaine for both the red and white Saint Aubin, is now well and truly established. If you are not convinced and need a less romantic reason for buying these wines, here it is: despite their rarefied quality they remain some of the finest bargains of the Côte d’Or. This is at least one reason why they are today so widely respected and fêted in their home country. Year in, year out, we purchase as much wine as we are offered (which is nowhere near enough!) Olivier took over his family Domaine from father Hubert in 1995. He immediately stopped supplying negoçiants and the following year, grubbed up or sold off under-performing vines and vineyard sites, and kept only the best and oldest vineyards for the Hubert Lamy wines. St Aubin has very rocky, mineral soils and borders the communes of Chassagne and Puligny Montrachet. The best St Aubin vineyards lie very close to the great Grand Crus of these communes (in some cases only a few metres away!) However these sites are typically far steeper and rockier than the vineyards of Chassagne or Puligny and result in whites that are often more racy, zesty, minerally (when made well).
Olivier seeks to make stylish wines that are refined and fresh, that highlight the mineral character of his soils. Yields are kept low and during harvest, grapes are sorted in the cellar. Vinification is traditional and the wines are matured in oak casks (20-30% new) for 12-18 months before light filtration and bottling. Olivier has begun using 600-lt tonneaux, rather than all 225-litre barriques. He feels this protects the purity of the fruit without over-oaking. Today, the majority of Lamy’s production is raised in these larger casks.