Greenstone embodies everything we search for in quality wine producers: vineyard specific wines of elegance, complexity and drinkability; wines that speak of place; and wines that work well with food. The Greenstone project brings together English MW David Gleave, Italian winemaker Alberto Antonini and viticulturalist Mark Walpole, who has taken the revolutionary step of planting the Greenstone vineyard to an east-west row orientation. This shields the fruit from the strong, summer sun to allow for a more gradual ripening process, while retaining natural acidity.
The Heathcote ‘greenstone’, a form of copper-infused basalt, is an integral part of the soil and gives the vineyard its name. The soil is also high in degraded limestone, one of the key features which attracted winemaker Alberto Antonini, who firmly believes that good levels of calcium in the soil (very rare in Australia) is essential for the production of elegant red wines. Another innovation was that the vineyard was specifically designed to produce low crops of grapes per vine. This meant planting at a density of 4,545 vines per hectare (2.2m x 1.0m), compared to the more typical 1,860 vines per hectare that is typically found in the region (3.0m x 1.8m spacings).
The resulting wines are about as far removed from the blockbuster-styled Heathcote reds as you can imagine and this suits us down to the ground. The Shiraz is a pure, refined effort reeks of class and has a discernable Italianate edge. Of course, with Antonini involved you wouldn’t expect anything less.
The early releases of the Sangiovese were quick to set a new yardstick for Australian Sangio. Alberto selected six clones in Italy together with some Brunello clones. Two of the original six Sangiovese clones produced tremendous quality fruit and were used for the Greenstone Sangiovese. There are now two levels of Sangiovese. Inspired by Montalcino, the home of ‘Brunello’, where wines that do not meet the exacting standards of Riserva are re-classified as Rosso di Montalcino; Greenstone has created the Rosso di Colbo Sangiovese 2008. Colbo refers to Colbinabbin, home to the Greenstone site. Greenstone will also release a ‘Riserva’ style Sangiovese in only the finest years (2007, 2010) while the new Rosso di Colbo should be able to be released each year.
As James Halliday has written, with such a young vineyard producing wines of this quality “…one wonders just how exceptional the site is.” Halliday has given Greenstone a five star rating for the fifth year running in his Australian Wine Companion 2012.