DOMAINE DENIS MORTET

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN

“The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier...”  Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 33 Jan 2009

“The young Mortet has always had a gifted touch but it seems clear that he is really coming into his own as his wines grow ever more sophisticated and pure.”
Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 45 Jan 2012

“...brilliant mastery of this style is revealed by all the property’s wines since 1993 – from the simple Burgundy to the Chambertin.” Bettane & Desseauve, The World’s Greatest Wines

A man of the vineyards, Arnaud's "knack", as critic David Schildknecht recently put it, is to be driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte (many of his colleagues acknowledge as much) and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity.
What has become clear since the tragic passing of Denis Mortet (in early 2006) is that Arnaud Mortet is a highly gifted vigneron and may well surpass his father in the wines he is producing. He is surrounded by a superb, highly experienced team that includes his mother Laurence, who does not get the attention she deserves from the wine media. As I have previously written, Laurence is an accomplished taster in her own right and was at Denis' side from day one. This intelligent and driven woman has provided invaluable support and guidance to Arnaud since his father passed. Arnaud himself had been working at his father's side for some years so his success should not be a great surprise. He has now released four superb vintages.
The 2005s were brilliant - although Denis was still alive, he was very ill and Laurence has made it clear to me that Arnaud was largely responsible for the vintage, obviously with input from Denis. He has backed up this success with a superb set of 2006 wines in his 'debut vintage', an even finer range in 2007 and another great success in 2008. Now we have the 2009s (just landed!) and those who tasted these wines from barrel will know that something very special is now on offer. It was perhaps the finest set of 2009s we tasted last year, which is saying something!
Arnaud is continuing Denis' dream of producing more refined wines: openly getting closer stylistically to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity or consistency across the range (which Rousseau has often lacked). Denis was already “backing off” the extraction in the pursuit of greater elegance but Arnaud is taking this even further, not only via shorter and gentler macerations, but also by reducing the percentage of new oak used. At the same time the vineyard work chez Mortet is at the very highest level. Horse is now used to plough all 1er and Grand Cru vineyards (in order to minimise soil compaction) and organic/biodynamic practice is now being trialed in these sites. Machines are no longer used in any sites and all the work, including spraying copper/sulphur which is done via backpack.
The yields remain very low (much lower than Rousseau for example) and, according to my understanding, the fruit selection (triage) is also much more severe. Lower yields and stricter triage will always result in richer, more intense wines, at least when the wines are young.
Mortet's vineyards are things of beauty. Every vine is tended by hand and leaves are removed if damaged in any way. The Allen Meadows notes above comments on the renown that Arnaud Mortet enjoys amongst his peers for his vineyard work. Everyone who knows Arnaud is well aware that he is a perfectionist by nature and that he is driven by the desire to honour his father's legacy. He has made a wonderful start. The continued evolution of Domaine Denis Mortet is certainly going to be very exciting to watch (and taste!)

NOTE: These wines are extremely rare. Please speak to Stuart Northey or your account manager regarding a possible allocation.