You are more likely to encounter hen's teeth than a Bandol Blanc on an Aussie wine list. Mainly this is because the white wines of Bandol account for just five per cent of this appellation's wines and most are snapped up by local restaurants and cafes. Pibarnon make a wonderful example that shouldn't be missed. The Estate's white vineyards occupy a few hectares of a north-facing, chalky outcrop. This is a more sheltered site that allows for a slower, gentler maturation of grapes that helps preserve acidity. Meanwhile the high limestone content contributes a tight structure and stony zing. The 2011 is sculpted from 40 per cent Clairette, which provides the glade of ripe smooth fruit, 40 per cent Bourboulenc, which brings structure and acidity, with the remainder local grape varieties (including Marsanne, Ugni Blanc and a little Viognier). These latter no doubt combine to add aromatic and textural complexity. The grapes are gently pressed in a pneumatic press and the fermentation takes 15-20 days at controlled temperature. This is followed by the malolactic fermentation. Maturation takes place in large, older oak casks.

Pibarnon's 2011 Blanc is an enticing, textural yet savoury white with steely freshness. The aromas offer the suggestion of jasmine, hawthorn and seaspray. The mouth delivers meadow-fresh, ripe and lacy flavours of summer apricots and white peach along with hints of candied almond, not unlike the sweet speciality of the region, Les Calissons d'Aix. Although textural, the wine remains savoury, fresh and crisp throughout with an almost spicy, powdery finish balancing out the waves of chewy fruit. Both rare and delicious.