Chandon de Briailles: Lo-fi, brilliant value, biodynamic Burgundies from Savigny, Pernand & Corton
Producteur des très grande qualité [one of only 25 in Côte de Beaune] Le Classment 2014
A Fine Domaine [the only grower in Savigny-Les-Beaune] Clive Coates MW, The Wines of Burgundy
“Nadine, Claude and François de Nicolay have made remarkable strides in the past twenty-five years and Chandon de Briailles is now making exceptional Burgundy.” Remington Norman, The Great Domaines Of Burgundy
Chandon de Briailles, that bastion of old-school Burgundian classicism, seem to have taken on a new lease of life in recent years. The wines here, so famous for their classical structure, for being the product of 100% whole bunch fermentation, and for requiring years to unfurl, are now far more seductive and energetic in their youth. The 2011 and 2012 vintages are the clearest examples yet of this evolution. Today there is far more selective use of whole bunches and the truly old oak has been disposed of (average age of the barrels used to be 8-10 years, it is now 3-5 years). There is even the odd new cask! Claude de Nicolay agrees that the increased tenderness in the wines today are in part due to these changes, yet, she feels, this most reflects the continued impact of the Estate’s biodynamic practices, which has resulted in physiologically riper and better balanced fruit. Whatever the reason, and despite the new, youthful charm, these wines have not sacrificed one jot of their renowned elegance and restraint. The wines remain super pure, with no overt new oak influence. As always, do not buy these wines if you are after dark, oaky, blockbusters – what you will find here, rather is the antithesis (or what a quantum... learn more
Note: 20 percent whole bunch, 20 percent new oak. This is Corton's lowest-lying grand cru, with the Domaine farming 1.45 hectares. It is a walled site, i.e., a clos, located on the lower eastern... read more
Note: 20 percent whole bunch, 20 percent new oak. A good Bressandes is primordial Corton; majestically intense with lots of meaty perfume, a tightly coiled, mineral palate and a complex weave of... read more