This cuvée is made from a 1/3ha parcel of Cabernet Franc planted 'franc de pied' (i.e. on its own rootstock). For anyone who believes that Cabernet Franc can't be silky, sensual and concentrated, this is a perfect riposte. The wine peels off in layers of ripe fruit, tobacco and spice, with complex earth and mineral notes to finish. With age, this could pass for an elegant right bank Bordeaux, although I suspect this is the farthest thing from Bernard Baudry's mind. It is a superb drink and further evidence that French wine lost something when it was forced to graft all of its vines over to American rootstock. Damn you phylloxera! I suspect the journalists are not shown this wine as it is made in such tiny quantities and sells out quickly. In fact we only learnt of its existence through colleagues close to the Baudry family and only after repeated requests were we finally allowed to taste the wine and to receive a small allocation. In contrast to much of the French winelands 2003 boded very well for Cabernet Franc in there Loire - and Beauholias for that matter. Some like it hot!